On 100 models without a fork brace the mudguard is retained by tour Allen bolts or screws. Remove the
bolts or screws and carefully withdraw the mudguard, noting the metal brackets which retain the nuts.
On all 75 models, and 100 models fitted with a fork brace, the mudguard is in two pieces, joined by the
brace. Fold down the cover at the rear of the brace, remove the longitudinal Allen screw, then unscrew the lateral Allen
screws securing the mudguard section to the fork lower legs; note carefully the location of the spacers between the fork lower
legs and the mudguard, also the rubber grommets which protect the brake hoses.
Taking care not to distort the brake pipes, withdraw the mudguard rear section followed by the front section.
The fork brace can then be unbolted, if required.
On refitting, take great care to ensure that all mounting components, particularly any spacers, are refitted
correctly, so that the fork legs are not distorted as the mudguard mountings are tightened. Ensure that the brake hoses are correctly
routed and secured by the clamps, guides or grommets provided.
Rear mudguard
Unlock and raise the seat; remove the tail storage compartment cover and slacken the nuts (either a wingnut
or an ordinary nut covered by a cap) on the compartment floor. From underneath the tail lamp assembly, on the outside of the
machine remove the two screws and withdraw the number plate bracket.
To remove the rear mudguard front section unscrew the two nuts in the storage compartment followed by
the two nuts at the front mounting bracket. Withdraw both brackets, noting the arrangement of the mounting rubbers, pull the
mudguard downwards at the rear and disengage it from the locating pins and rubber bushes set in the gearbox housing.
Refitting is the reverse of the above. Ensure that the mudguard is settled correctly and fully on its
mountings before tightening the retaining nuts.
Radiator cover panels - K75, K75C, K75T, K100
On 75 models very carefully prise each panel's upper rear corner out of the rubber mounting grommet in the
fuel tank, then pull it forwards until it is clear of the front mounting prongs and withdraw the panel assembly downwards and
to the side.
If required, the mesh panel can be removed from inside the panel and the two securing nuts and bolts can be
removed to separate the panel halves
On K100 models, working from the front of the radiator cover, remove the three screws retaining the left-hand
side cover, then very carefully pull the cover out of the rubber mounting grommet in the fuel tank and withdraw it. Pull the
right-hand side cover out of its rubber mounting grommet and withdraw it. complete with the cover front panel. Note the mounting
buffers bolted to each side of the radiator.
The mesh panel can be removed, if required, from inside the cover by unscrewing the retaining screws and
withdrawing the frame, sealing strip and the mesh panel.
On all models refitting is considerably eased if the rubber grommets are coated with a film of rubber lubricant
or even moistened with water.
Side panels
On all models note that the side panels are fragile and will crack easily if wrenched off their mountings;
exercise care at all times and note that refitting is eased if the rubber grommets are first coated with a film of rubber lubricant
or even moistened with water.
14 On 75 models carefully pull each panel outwards at the bottom to release the clip, swing it downwards away
from the fuel tank mounting, and slide it to the front to release the rear locating pin.
15 Note that if the spring clip is loose, the side panels may work loose and drop off. Check first that the fuel
tank is fully seated in its rear mountings and that the bottom mounting pins on the frame are not bent. Check that the spring clip
is installed so that its retaining lug is seated correctly in the opening provided. If necessary, bend the spring clip (taking care
not to damage the panel) or the frame mounting pin, so that the spring clip grips securely. Check that the protective moulding is
in place along each tank bottom seam before refitting the panels.
On early (1984 and 1985 models, identified by the panel's angled bottom rear edge) 100 models carefully pull
the panels outwards at the top front and rear corners to disengage them from their mounting grommets, then slide them gently to the
rear to release them from the bottom mounting prongs.
On later (1986-on models, identified by the panel's straight bottom rear edge) 100 models carefully pull each
panel outwards at its top front corner to disengage it from its mounting grommet, then swing it downwards just enough to release the
bottom mounting hook and slide it to the front to release the rear locating pin.
Tail unit
Unlock and raise the seat and remove the tail storage compartment cover. Remove the tail lamp assembly, the seat
and the rear mudguard. Remove the seat rear pivot mounting bracket and disconnect the rear turn signal lamp wires.
Unscrew the mounting screws and nuts and withdraw the tail unit. The pillion grab handles can be unbolted
from inside the storage compartment, each is retained by a nut and a bolt.
Engine protection bars
Some models are fitted as standard with engine protection bars. Note that these cannot be fitted to machines
with engine spoilers (belly fairings) and if they are to be fitted to K100RS, K100RT or K100LT models, the fairinq lower side
panels must be provided with cutouts to permit the bars to be fitted. Any authorised BMW dealer should be able to provide the
templates required to position the holes accurately.
Genuine BMW bars are rubber-mounted to absorb shocks without passing them directly to the frame or to the engine
castings; this is preferable to the usual after-market type which is bolted rigidly to the engine and frame and can cause severe
damage to the crankcase lower section or sump castings in even the most minor incident.
A large mounting plate is bolted to the (normally blanked-off) mounting points on each side of the crankcase lower
section or sump (oil pan) castings. Bonded to or screwed into these plates are mounting points for the bar lower ends. At the top the
standard engine mounting balts are replaced by extended sleeve balts into which are screwed rubber mountings. The outer end of each
mounting is fitted into the bar upper end and secured by a nut; a blanking plug is fitted over the nut for the sake of appearance.